Hakone Travel Guide

Most overnighters base themselves at one of the famous ryokan: the historic Fujiya Hotel in Miyanoshita has been a landmark since 1878.

Hakone is Kanagawa's most rewarding overnight escape — a compact volcanic valley of steaming hot springs, cedar forests, and caldera lakes within 90 minutes of Tokyo. The Hakone Free Pass strings together a mountain railway, aerial ropeway, and Lake Ashi sightseeing boat into a single loop, making this one of Japan's most logistically elegant short trips. But beneath the well-worn circuit lies older, quieter Hakone: a 400-year-old Tokaido highway teahouse, silver-grass plains that most foreign visitors never find, and ryokan culture that rewards anyone who stays the night.

When to Visit

Hakone rewards visits year-round — the season determines whether you're chasing Fuji views, foliage, or onsen in the snow.

What to Do in Hakone

The classic loop covers volcanic craters, a caldera lake, and an open-air sculpture park — but Hakone's lesser-known corners are equally worth your time.

Skip the Crowds

• Sengokuhara Susuki Plain: The silver pampas grass fields north of Gora are one of Hakone's most striking autumn sights — and almost entirely absent from foreign-tourist itineraries. Peak season is late October through November; go on a weekday morning before the tour buses arrive from Odawara.
• Amazake-chaya on the old Tokaido: This 400-year-old thatched teahouse sits on the original Edo-period highway that once connected Tokyo to Kyoto. Pilgrims and daimyo stopped here; today it's a quiet 20-minute detour off the standard loop bus route, serving the same sweet amazake it always has.
• Miyagino area for onsen: Hakone-Yumoto draws the most tour groups. The Miyagino district, a short bus ride further up, has smaller ryokan and day-use baths with fewer crowds — Naraya Cafe is here too.
• Hakone-Tozan Railway on a weekday morning: The switchback mountain railway between Hakone-Yumoto and Gora is genuinely scenic — but on weekend afternoons it's standing-room only. Catch it before 9am on a weekday and you'll have a window seat.

Food & Drink

Hakone's table runs from ryokan kaiseki to volcanic-cooked street snacks — the black eggs at Owakudani are as much ritual as food.

Where to Stay

Staying overnight — especially at a ryokan — transforms Hakone from a day trip into the trip. The valley empties after 5pm and the hot springs are yours.

Day Trips

Two easy escapes from Hakone — both reachable by train in under 30 minutes and worth combining into a longer Kanagawa itinerary.

How to Get There

Tips for Visiting

• Book the Romancecar in advance: The Odakyu Romancecar's panoramic front seats sell out on weekends — reserve online or at Shinjuku Station a few days ahead (check current pricing and availability on the Odakyu website).
• Arrive at Owakudani before 10am: Tour groups arrive mid-morning. The crater is a different experience before the crowds — and the Fuji views are clearest in the early hours before haze builds.
• Pack layers: Mountain weather in Hakone shifts quickly. Even on a warm Tokyo day, the ropeway and Owakudani can be 10°C cooler — bring a jacket.
• Ryokan check-in is typically 3–4pm: Plan your first afternoon around this — do the ropeway and Owakudani in the morning, then check in and let the ryokan evening take over.
• The Hakone Free Pass pays for itself: On a 2-day stay using the ropeway, mountain railway, and Lake Ashi boat, the pass covers its cost easily. Buy at any Odakyu station or online — confirm current pricing before your trip.
• Ropeway closures: The Hakone Ropeway closes periodically for maintenance or volcanic activity warnings. Check the Hakone Ropeway website before your visit — the loop can still be done by bus if the ropeway is down.

FAQ