Yanaka is the wijk between Ueno Park and the Imperial University that survived WWII firebombing largely intact — narrow Edo-era streets, wooden houses still occupied, working tatami makers, knife sharpeners and woodblock printers. Yanaka Cemetery (1872) is where the last Tokugawa shogun is buried; the cats living between the gravestones are the wijk’s mascots.
Character of the District
Walk from Nippori’s south exit through Yanaka Cemetery (the central cherry-tree avenue is the photo spot, last Tokugawa shogun’s grave behind the central marker). Yanaka Ginza shopping street starts at the famous Yuyake-dandan sunset steps; 60 stalls of post-war small business. Side streets hide the Asakura Sculpture Museum (1928 wooden artist’s house, ¥500), seven cat-themed shops, working temples and a few cafes that haven’t been Instagram-discovered.
What to See in Yanaka
Five anchors that define a Yanaka walk:
How to Get There
Getting There
- 1Take JR Yamanote Line → Nippori Station
- 1Take JR Yamanote (1 stop) → Nippori Station
Tips
- Walk south from Nippori, not north from Sendagi. The cemetery+sunset-steps approach gives the best gradient.
- Sunday is the cat day. Locals come out, cats sit in shop windows. Saturday is similar but slightly more visitors.
- Eat menchi-katsu at Niku no Suzuki. ¥300, queue locally — the wijk’s signature snack.
- Combine with Ueno + Akihabara. All on the Yamanote line; full historical-Tokyo + electronic-Tokyo day.
Adjacent Neighborhoods
Districts on Yanaka’s edge:
FAQ
Yanaka or Asakusa for old-Tokyo?
Asakusa = the famous one, photographable, full of foreign visitors. Yanaka = the actually-preserved old neighborhood, working artisans, locals. Do Asakusa once for the icons, Yanaka for the texture.
How long do I need?
Half day for Yanaka Ginza + cemetery + walk. Full day with Nezu Shrine + Asakura Museum + lunch.
